Sunana, the Crochet Pineapple

Happy birds chirping, the smell of sun and grass, a prickling on the skin, and the feeling of carefreeness… my mind is wandering off when the sunshine of the first warm days hits my windows. But who said you have to wait until summer for your sweet summer feels? For all of you who feel the length of the cold months in their bones or for those of you who just want to get the summer vibes in the comforts of their sweet home, I have made this pattern of the fun little Crochet Pineapple, Sunana.

You can use the crochet pineapple as a key chain or [without the extremities but with the sunglasses] as a fun small fruit deco on its own. At a total size of appr. 8 cm (6 cm without the legs) the pocket-sized crochet pineapple with her beach shoes and sunglasses will keep you sunny company every step of your way, all year round. Because we all deserve some summer feeling at home and wherever we go.

I hope you guys enjoy this free crochet pineapple pattern and you have great joy over the outcome!

Happy crocheting!

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What do you need:

How to read the instructions:

The instructions are written in US Crochet Terminology.

Abbreviations:  sc = single crochet | BS = bobble stitch | sl st = slip stitch | st, sts = stitch, stitches | ch = chain / blo = back-loops only | flo = front-loops only | MR = magic ring | Rd = round | inc = increase (work 2 sc in 1 st) | dec = decrease (sc 2 sts together)

turning ch	at the end of each row, we ch 1 and turn our work to continue with the next row. The ch 1 before turning the work is also referred to as the “turning ch” and we will always skip this ch st when we crochet in the next row. So, the turning ch st is not worked on!
lorem ipsum	text marked in italic format is meant as a comment that should explain a previous step in more detail
k sc x t	we work k number of sc sts in the next t sts; e.g. (1 sc, ch 1) x 3 means that you work 1 sc in the next st, then ch 1, and you repeat this for the next 2 sts (you increase the row count by 3 ch sts)

We work in continuous rounds.

Stitch types used:

Stitch Type	Abbr.	Description
single crochet	sc	See a great how-to-single-crochet guide (with video and illustrations) here.
single crochet back-loops only, single crochet front-loops only	sc-blo, sc-flo	In the usual way of crocheting, you insert the crochet hook from the front of the stitch underneath the “V” and through the center of the “V”. The “V” consists of two loops, one loop facing you (which is called the front loop) and one loop at the back of your work (which is referred to as the back loop). When you crochet the round or row in back-loops only, you insert your hook underneath the back loop of each stitch and then make the stitch as indicated in the pattern. You see the blo often abbreviated in connection to the stitch made in the back loop (single crochet blo, double crochet blo, half-double crochet blo, etc.). At the end of your round or row that was worked in blo (e.g. sc-blo) you get a stair-like pattern: Crocheting in front-loops only is similar to sc-blo, but you work through the front loops only instead of the back loops.
modified Bobble Stitch	BSx	We use a modified version of a Bobble Stitch (BS): we pull 3 series of half-double crochet loops that we then pull through all at once. In contrast to a normal BS, we then do not close the Bobble Stitch with a single crochet (we skip this step overall!). The pattern refers to this BS as “BSx”. In more detail, we work the BSx as follows: (1.) Yarn over, insert hook into stitch, yarn over again and pull up a loop. Yarn over, pull through two loops. (This resembles completing the first half of one double crochet stitch). (2.) Repeat (1.) in the same stitch/space until you have a total of 4 loops on your hook. (3.) Yarn over and pull through all 4 loops at once. In a normal BS, we’d complete the stitch pattern by doing a single crochet in the next stitch. Working a sc in the next st creates the thick bobble effect typical in a BS at the back of your work. Skipping this step, like in our BSx, makes the BS elevated on both sides of your work but it doesn’t stand out that much.
Spike stitch		After the 6. Rd we work the BSx as spike stitches. That is, in contrast to the usual way of crocheting, we stitch below one row for our BSx and cover the entire st above. A great video tutorial on spike stitches you can find here, but careful: a spike stitch generally refers to doing “long” single crochet stitches. In this pattern, we do half-double crochet stitches as the spikes for our BSx instead of a sc.

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Free Crochet Pineapple Pattern:

We work the crochet pineapple from fruit bottom to top (leaves). When going from the fruit body to the leaves, we change the colour to the leaves-colour. Except for the first leaf, we work each leaf with a separat green yarn. With a new yarn, we then work the arms (golden yarn), legs (golden and magenta yarn) and sunglasses (black yarn) and sew them to the fruit with a wool or thick darning needle.

Important note: for the sunglasses, I used a black yarn that was slightly thinner than the golden yarn from the overall fruit. This made the sunglasses appear thin and smaller than it would be with the same yarn type, as I didn’t want the sunglasses to be too dominant.

Crochet Pineapple (pure Fruit)

We start our fruit from the bottom with an golden yarn. The pineapple basically consists of alternating bobble spike stitches and ch 1.
1. Rd: 6 sc in a MR (6)
2. Rd: 2 sc x 6 (12)
3. Rd: (1 sc, 2 sc in next st) x 6 (18)
4. Rd (BSx-Rd): (1 BSx, ch 1, skip the next sc st) x 9 (skip the last st) (18)

5. Rd (sc-Rd): 1 sc in each st around (the last sc goes into the ch st from the end of the previous Rd) (18)

6. Rd (BSx-Rd): (ch 1, 1 BSx between next 2 BSx from prev. BSx-Rd (5. Rd) and below the sc-Rd) x 9 (18)
(in this Rd you, basically, never stitch in a crochet st but always go in the space between the next 2 BSx from the previous BSx-Rd, while covering the sc-Rd above in the new BSx. This is like crocheting spike stitches except that we don’t work the spikes as sc sts but as BS.)

7. Rd (sc-Rd): 1 sc in each st around (the first sc goes into the ch st from the end of the previous Rd) (18)

8. Rd (BSx-Rd): (1 BSx between the next 2 BSx, ch 1) x 9 (you work this Rd just like the 6. Rd but you don’t start with a ch 1) (18)

9. Rd (sc-Rd): 1 sc in each st around (18)
10. Rd (BSx-Rd): repeat 6. Rd (18)
11. Rd (sc-Rd): 1 sc in each st around (18)
12. Rd (BSx-Rd): repeat 8. Rd (18)
13. Rd (sc-dec-Rd): dec every st while stuffing the inside with fiberfill, change colour to green in the last st (9)

We continue with the green yarn for the LEAVES. We do the LEAVES in 4 layers, each layer has 3 leaves that are worked in the same way, whereby you start each leave with a new yarn. Between the layers, however, you shift the leaves by 1 st, so that the leaves look a bit out of place and not parallel.

You start with the first LEAF in the 1st layer (1. LEAF-1. LAYER) as follows:
14. Rd (continue with the green yarn): 1 sc in the first 3 sts, skip the remaining 6 sts. Ch 1 + turn your work (3)
15. Rd (blo-Rd): 1 sc-blo in each of the 3 sts. Ch 1 + turn your work (3)
16. Rd: dec, 1 sc. Ch 1 + turn your work (2)
17. Rd: dec. Ch 1 + turn your work (1)
18. Rd: 1 sl st (1)
Weave in the yarn ends.

For the 2. LEAF-1. LAYER take a new green yarn piece and make a slip knot.
14. Rd: do 1 sc in the 4^th st of the 14. Rd (the 1^st st that was skipped). Continue to work 1 sc in the next 2 sts, skip the remaining 3 sts. Ch 1 + turn your work.
Repeat 15. – 18. Rd from the 1. LEAF.
Weave in the yarn ends.

For the 3. LEAF-1. LAYER take a new green yarn piece and make a slip knot.
Repeat above steps (14. – 18. Rd), but you start from the 7^th st of the 14. Rd.
Weave in the yarn ends.
We have finished the first layer of 3 leaves. We now do the second layer (2. LAYER) of another 3 leaves. We start the 2. LAYER from the blo-Rd of the 1. LAYER and 1 st shifted.

For the 1. LEAF-2. LAYER take a new green yarn piece and make a slip knot.
15. Rd (flo-Rd): 1 sc in the 2^nd flo of the 1. LEAF-1. LAYER‘s 15. Rd, 1 sc in the 3^rd flo of the 1. LEAF-1. LAYER, 1 sc in the 1^st flo of the 2. LEAF-1. LAYER. Ch 1 + turn your work
16. Rd (blo-Rd): 1 sc-blo in each of the 3 sts. Ch 1 + turn your work (3)
17. Rd: dec, 1 sc. Ch 1 + turn your work (2)
18. Rd: dec. Ch 1 + turn your work (1)
19. Rd: 1 sl st (1)
Weave in the yarn ends.

In the illustrations below, the previous layer is decolorized to a brighter colour for better visibility. The sts to work in are additionally marked with a needle.

For the 2. LEAF-2. LAYER take a new green yarn piece and make a slip knot.
Repeat above steps from the 1. LEAF-2. LAYER (15. – 19. Rd), but you start from the 2^nd flo st of the 2. LEAF-1. LAYER‘s 15. Rd and go the next 2 flo sts until the 1^st flo of the 3. LEAF-1. LAYER.
Weave in the yarn ends.

For the 3. LEAF-2. LAYER take a new green yarn piece and make a slip knot.
Repeat above steps (15. – 19. Rd), but you start from the 2^nd flo st of the 3. LEAF-1. LAYER’s 15. Rd and go another 2 flo sts until the 1^st flo of the 1. LEAF-1. LAYER.
Weave in the yarn ends.
We have finished the second layer of 3 leaves. We now do the third layer (3. LAYER) of another 3 leaves. We start the 3. LAYER from the blo-Rd of the 2.LAYER.

For the 1. LEAF-3. LAYER take a new green yarn piece and make a slip knot.
16. Rd: 1 sc in the 3^rd flo of the 1. LEAF-2. LAYER’s 16. Rd, 1 sc in the 1^st flo of the 2. LEAF-2. LAYER, 1 sc in the 2^nd flo of the 2. LEAF-2. LAYER. Ch 1 + turn your work
17. Rd: 1 sc-blo in each of the 3 sts. Ch 1 + turn your work (3)
18. Rd: dec, 1 sc. Ch 1 + turn your work (2)
19. Rd: dec. Ch 1 + turn your work (1)
20. Rd: 1 sl st (1)
Weave in the yarn ends.

For the 2. LEAF-3. LAYER take a new green yarn piece and make a slip knot.
Repeat above steps (16. – 20. Rd), but you start from the 3^rd flo st of the 2. LEAF-2. LAYER’s 16. Rd.
Weave in the yarn ends.

For the 3. LEAF-3. LAYER take a new green yarn piece and make a slip knot.
Repeat 16. – 20. Rd, but you start from the 3^rd flo st of the 3. LEAF-2. LAYER’s 16. Rd.
Weave in the yarn ends.
We have finished the third layer of 3 leaves. We now do the fourth and last layer of another 3 leaves.

We work 1. – 3. LEAF-4. LAYER in the similar way as above, but we start each LEAF from the 2^nd flo of each LEAF-3.LAYER’s 17. Rd and go until the 1^st flo of the next LEAF.
We weave in the yarn ends.

Your ‘naked’ crochet pineapple is finished! We now want to add the sunglasses, arms and legs.

Crochet Sunglasses

The SUNGLASSES are done with a thinner black yarn (about 0.5 mm lower recommended hook size). We crochet the SUNGLASSES from both ends of the yarn to avoid unnecessary yarn ends!

Ch 12 and leave lots of yarn end that we will use for the other side of the SUNGLASSES.
1. Row: 1 sl st, 1 sc in the next 3 sts, skip the remaining 7 sts. Ch 1 + turn your work (3)
2. Row: 1 sc in the first 3 sts, skip the last sl st. Ch 1 + turn your work (3)
3. Row: dec, 1 sl st (2)
Stitch into the 1st ch st from the other side of the chain (the opposite side of the first lens). Yarn over and go through the ch st (this is, basically, working a sl st in the 1st ch st).
1. Row: 1 sl st in the next ch st, 1 sc in the next 3 ch sts, skip the remaining 2 sts (before reaching the other lens). Ch 1 + turn your work
2. Row: 1 sc in the first 3 sts, skip the last sl st. Ch 1 + turn your work (3)
3. Row: dec, 1 sl st (2)
Weave in the yarn ends.

Use a new black yarn to sew the SUNGLASSES to the 10. Rd of the pineapple so that there is 1 BSx between the two lenses.

Important: in the illustrations, I have worked – in a first version of the sunglasses – 2 sl sts instead of 1 sl st for longer temples of the glasses. In the final pattern I shortened them, though, as I liked it better the other way. Also, I have done the illustrations with a grey-coloured yarn for better visibility.

Crochet Pineapple Arms

Take the golden yarn.
1. Rd: 6 sc in a MR (6)
2. – 6. Rd: 1 sc in each st around (6)

Repeat for the second ARM.

Use the yarn tail to sew the ARMS 1 BSx away from the SUNGLASSES in the 8. Rd, covering the entire BSx in the arm.

Crochet Pineapple Legs

We start from the bottom of the LEG and work our way up to an open top of the LEG which we will sew onto the fruit. Start the LEG with the magenta yarn.
1. Rd: 6 sc in a MR (6)
2. Rd: 1 sc in each st around. Change colour to golden (6)
3. – 7. Rd: 1 sc in each st around. Sl st in the last st of 7. Rd (6)

Repeat for the second LEG.

Use the yarn tail to sew the LEGS in the middle of the fruit’s bottom between the 2. and 3. Rd.

Your crochet pineapple is finished! I hope your Sunana gives your workaday life some sunny fiesta 😉