Looking for an easy and quick crochet project that’s a little different? How about those cozy crochet slipper dragon socks?
These dragon socks are a playful way to show off your skills while creating something both fun and practical. Shaped to look like a dragon eating your foot, they’re sure to bring a smile to anyone who sees them. This pattern is easy to adapt, whether you want to make other animal-themed socks or use sturdier yarns like cotton to create indoor shoes. Such animal socks are an ideal gift for a child or young-at-heart adult. They are super easy, fast and fun to make.
Grab your supplies, and let’s get started on these one-of-a-kind socks with this free pattern below!
Merry Christmas!
Crochet Supplies
You need:
- Fluffy yarn: I used Bohème Velvet Double by Go Handmade (100% polyester) with a 3.5 mm crochet hook. For kids’ sized socks (27/28), you need about 2 yarn balls.
- Additionally, thin, sturdy yarn for the eyes, horns, and teeth, e.g., sock yarn. I used Rainbow Deluxe 8/4 by Hobbii (2.5 – 3 mm recommended hook size) with a 2.0 mm crochet hook.
- Darning needle
- Scissors
Sizing
The pattern is designed for children’s size 27/28. For larger socks, you’ll need to add more increase rounds at the beginning and crochet additional rounds before reaching the heel.
Abbreviations
flo – front loop only
ch – chain
hdc – half double crochet
hdc2tog – work 2 sts in a half-double crochet together
sc – single crochet
sl st – slip stitch
st(s) – stitch(es)
tch 1 – turning chain 1 (= chain 1, turn your work)
Rd / R – round / row
Free Pattern
The socks are crocheted in the following parts:
- Sock Body
- Sock Heel
- Upper and Lower Jaw
- Nostrils
- Eyes
- Horns
- (Wings – I used the wing pattern of this dragon)
- Back Spines
- Teeth
Sock Body
I used blue yarn colour.
1. Rd: Ch 2, 8 hdc in 2nd ch st from hook (8)
2. Rd: 2 hdc x 8 (16)
3. Rd: (1 hdc, 2 hdc) x 8 (24)
4. Rd: (1 hdc x 2, 2 hdc) x 8 (32)
– if you want to create bigger socks, you will need to keep working increase rounds of 8 until you reach your desired width.
5. Rd: (1 hdc x 15, 2 hdc) x 2 (34)
6. – 17. Rd: 1 hdc x 34 (12 rounds)
18. Rd: 1 hdc x 19, ch 16, skip next 15 sts, sl st in 1st hdc of round beginning (35)
19. Rd: 1 hdc in same st as previous sl st, 1 hdc x 18, 1 hdc in each of the 16 ch sts (35)
20. – 28. Rd: 1 hdc x 35 (9 rounds)
(you now continue with the lower jaw🙂
29. Rd / 1. R. 1 hdc x 6, skip the remaining sts, ch 1 + turn your work
2. R: 1 hdc x 17, ch 1 + turn your work (17)
3. – 5. R: 1 hdc x 17, ch 1 + turn your work (3 rounds)
6. R: hdc2tog, 1 hdc x 13, hdc2tog, ch 1 + turn your work (15)
7. R: sc2tog x 3, 1 sc x 3, sc2tog x 3, ch 1 + turn your work (9)
8. R: sc3tog x 3, fasten off and leave a lot of yarn end (~ 100 cm) (3)
Take a new piece of blue yarn, stitch in the 29. Rd of the Socks Body in the 7th st (right after the 1. R of the lower jaw). We now work the upper jaw opposite to the lower jaw:
29. Rd / 1. R. ch 1, 1 hdc in same st as ch-1, 1 hdc x 17 (the 18th st is already covered by the lower jaw), ch 1 + turn your work (18)
2. – 5. R: 1 hdc x 18, ch 1 + turn your work (18)
6. R: hdc2tog, 1 hdc x 14, hdc2tog, ch 1 + turn your work (16)
7. R: hdc2tog, 1 hdc x 12, hdc2tog, ch 1 + turn your work (14)
8. R: hdc2tog, 1 hdc-flo x 3, 1 hdc x 4, 1 hdc-flo x 3, hdc2tog, ch 1 + turn your work (12). The flo sts of this row are for the nostrils.
9. R: hdc2tog x 2, 1 hdc x 4, hdc2tog x 2, ch 1 + turn your work (8)
10. R: sc2tog x 4, fasten off and leave a lot of yarn end (~ 100 cm) (4)
Heel
The heel is crocheted in black yarn.
Insert your hook into a corner stitch of the 18th round of the sock body.
1. Rd: Ch 1, hdc2tog going in the same stitch as the ch-1 and into the next stitch, 1 hdc in each stitch around (x 13), hdc2tog, continue on the other side: hdc2tog , 1 hdc x 14, hdc2tog , sl st into the first hdc, turn.
2. Rd: Ch 1, hdc2tog going in the same stitch as the ch-1 and into the next stitch, 1 hdc x 12, hdc2tog x 2, 1 hdc x 11, hdc2tog, sl st into the first hdc, turn.
3. Rd: Ch 1, hdc2tog going in the same stitch as the ch-1 and into the next stitch, 1 hdc x 9, hdc2tog x 2, 1 hdc x 10, hdc2tog, sl st into the first hdc.
Turn the sock inside out. Using a yarn needle, sew the heel closed on this “wrong side.” Press the heel flat and sew the sides together through the inner loops of the stitches.
Upper Jaw – Inside
Use light-rose colour.
Ch 16 + tch 1.
1. – 4. R: 1 hdc x 16, ch 1 + turn (4 rows)
5. R: hdc2tog, 1 hdc x 12, hdc2tog, ch 1 + turn (14)
6. R: hdc2tog, 1 hdc x 10, hdc2tog, ch 1 + turn (12)
7. R: hdc2tog, 1 hdc x 8, hdc2tog, ch 1 + turn (10)
8. R: hdc2tog x 2, 1 hdc x 2, hdc2tog x 2, weave ends in (6)
Lower Jaw – Inside
Use light-rose colour.
Ch 15 + tch 1.
1. – 4. R: 1 hdc x 15, ch 1 + turn (4 rows)
5. R: hdc2tog, 1 hdc x 11, hdc2tog, ch 1 + turn (13)
6. R: hdc2tog, 1 hdc x 9, hdc2tog, ch 1 + turn (11)
7. R: sc2tog x 2, 1 sc x 3, sc2tog x 2, weave ends in (7)
Use the blue ends of the Sock Body to sew the inner upper and lower jaw to the Body.
Nostrils
Take a new blue yarn and stitch in the flo sts of the 8. R of the outside upper jaw. Ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch-1, 1 hdc in next flo st, 1 sc in last flo st of the right side. Bring the ends inside the jaw, tie and hide the ends inside.
Take a new blue yarn and repeat for the other side of the flo sts of the upper jaw’s 8. R.
Eyes
I used thin cotton yarn in black and white for the eyes.
Start in black.
1. Rd: 6 sc in MR, sl st in 1st sc, ch 1 (6)
2. Rd: 2 sc x 6 (starting in same st as ch-1), sl st in 1st sc and change colour to white, ch 1 (12)
3. Rd: (1 sc, 2 sc) x 6, sl st in 1st sc (18)
Weave the white ends in. Use the black ends to sew the eyes between the 28. and 29. Rd of the Body.
Horns
Use white cotton yarn for the horns.
1. Rd: 5 sc in MR (5)
2. Rd: (1 sc, 2 sc) x 2, 1 sc (7)
3. Rd: (1 sc x 2, 2 sc) x 2, 1 sc (9)
4. Rd: (1 sc x 2, 2 sc) x 3 (12)
5. Rd: (1 sc x 5, 2 sc) x 2 (14)
Sew the horns 1 row above the eyes on each side.
Wings
I used the wing pattern of this No-Sew Dragon and I sewed the wings about 4-5 rows above the horns.
Back Spines
The back spines consist of 8 blocks that are crocheted across the rounds at the middle of the back. The blocks are separated by 2 empty rounds.
Each block is worked as: [ch 1, 1 sc in same st as ch-1, ch2, 1 hdc in next st above the current st, ch2, 1 sl st in next st above the current st].
Teeth
The dragon has 8 teeth. Each teeth is worked as follows:
ch 7.
1. R: 1 sc x 6, ch 1 + turn (6)
2. R: sc2tog, 1 sc x 2, sc2tog, ch 1 + turn (4)
3. R: 1 sc x 4, ch 1 + turn (4)
4. R: sc2tog x 2, ch 1 + turn (2)
5. R: 1 sc x 2, ch 1 + turn (2)
6. R: sc2tog, ch 1 + turn (1)
7. R: 1 sc.
Repeat 7 more times. Using a yarn needle and the yarn ends, sew the teeth at alternating intervals along the color transition between the outer and inner upper jaw.
Your first dragon sock is finished! Repeat the steps above for the 2nd sock.
Making your Socks non-Slippery
Especially for socks or slippers for the elderly and toddlers, it’s recommended to add a non-slip solution to the soles to give the socks more grip on the floor. For this, you can use sock stop fabric paint, rubber milk, or anti-slip pads that can be ironed on (or sewn on, if the ironed-on material doesn’t stick well to the sock fabric).
But be careful: with polyester yarn, sock stop gel may come off more easily or detach faster after a few washes compared to cotton or sturdier sock yarn. In addition, the sock stop coating can make the yarn unpleasantly stiff. To help with this, you can first crochet small appliqués (e.g., the shape of an animal footprint) using a soft, thin sock yarn and apply the sock stop to these appliqués. Once the solution has dried (after 2-3 applications), the appliqués can be sewn onto the sole, starting from the heel.
Instead of multiple appliqués, you can also crochet a sole that extends from the heel to the toes using sturdier yarn, which can then be sewn onto the outside of the sock or slipper like a shoe sole. This adds a special look and more security.
