Amigurumi

Foxy Alabama (6 cm)

appr. 6 cm; 2.0-3.0 mm hook size

finalpos

This little crochet amigurumi fox (appr. 6 cm height) came to life when I was pondering over a gift for a male friend. Surprisingly, from all the kinds of amigurumis I have made so far, this crochet fox seems to be particularly favoured among guys. Initially, I gave it a winter cap and a scarf; now, in the hot months, a summer hat seemed reasonable. My Foxy Alabama (inspired by the determination and love for freedom* associated with a fox) requires an intermediate to advanced level (the hat can be particularly nerve-racking, because it requires the thinnest yarn available) and for an advanced crocheter it might take about 5 hours to complete (incl. the hat).

* Alabama was home to Martin Luther King and the starting activism against segregation in the South

What do you need:

start

  • for the body: 2 colours of super fine to fine yarn (recommended hook size 2.0-3.0 mm; e.g. Cottone fine by Lana Grossa, Schachenmayr Catania fine). I used a white and beige yarn
  • for the nose: a black colour of light yarn (recommended hook size 3.0-4.0; e.g. Schachenmayr Bravo Uni)
  • for the “straw” hat: a light beige Diana yarn (preferably size 20; use a hook size of 1.5-2.0 mm for that, if you want to create a holey look)
  • a pair of safety eyes at 6 mm size
  • a scissor
  • a fine darning needle
  • wadding

Description: the number in brackets (x) at the end of a round indicates the total number of stitches that this round ends up to have with regards to the increases/ decreases. When the sentence states e.g. “increase every 3rd sc“, it means that you do a single crochet in the 1st and 2nd sc, and 2 single crochets in the 3rd sc (i.e. your round increases now by 1 stitch). You repeat the increase by counting anew after the increase stitch (4th sc = 1st sc…). “Decrease every 3rd sc” means respectively, that you do a single crochet in the 1st and 2nd sc and crochet the 3rd and 4th sc together (i.e. your round gets now reduced by 1 stitch). You repeat the decrease throughout the round by counting anew at the 5th sc.

Crochet in continuous rounds!

st, sts = stitch, stitches // sc = single crochet // [sc] inc = increase [by an additional sc in the same sc] // [sc] dec = decrease [by crocheting next two sc with a sc together] // sl st = slip stitch


Head:

1. Rd: start off with the nose shape by making 5 sts in a magic ring with the lighter colour. (5)
2.-3. Rd: sc into each sc across (5)
4. Rd: *2 sc in the 1st sc, 1 sc in the next sc* (repeat from * to *, 2x in total), 2 sc in the last st (8)
5. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (*1 sc, 2 sc in next sc*, repeat 4x) (12)
6. Rd: inc every 4th sc (*1 sc, 1 sc, 1 sc, 2 sc in next sc*, repeat 3x) (15)

Now, change the colour to the darker yarn and continue with round 7:

7. Rd: inc every sc for the next 5 sc (i.e. 2 sc, 2 sc, 2 sc, 2 sc, 2 sc), 1 sc in the remaining 10 sts (20)

Note: you might insert a marker at the end of the 7th round that serves as an orientation for the safety eyes

8. Rd: inc every sc for the next 6 sc, 1 sc in the remaining 8 sts (26)
9.-13. Rd: sc in each st around (26)

=> insert the safety eyes between the 7th and 8th round (resp. between the 2nd and 3rd round of the darker yarn colour). From where the round started (from the marker) count 6 st and insert the 1st eye in the 6th st; count 7 st further and insert the 2nd eye in the next st.

14. Rd: dec every 12th sc (crochet 12th+13th together, …) (24)
15. Rd: dec every 5th sc (crochet 5th+6th together, …) (20)
16. Rd: dec every 9th sc (crochet 9th+10th together, …) (18)
17. Rd: dec every 2nd sc (crochet 2nd+3rd together, …) (12)

Stuff with some wadding the inside of the head.

18. Rd: dec every sc (1st+2nd together, 3rd+4th together, …) (6)

Finish off by closing the head, weave in the yarn ends into the head and cut off the rest.

 


Continue with the body by using the darker yarn colour only:

1. Rd: 6 sts in a magic ring (6)
2. Rd: inc every sc (12)
3. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (18)
4.-5. Rd: sc in each st around (18)
6. Rd: dec every 8th sc (8th+9th together, 17th+18th together (16)
7. Rd: dec every 7th sc (14)
8. Rd: sc in each st around (14)
9. Rd: dec every 6th sc (12)
10. Rd: dec every 5th sc (10)

End the round with a slip stitch and put some wadding inside. Do not close the body and leave enough yarn end to later sew the body to the head!


Legs (2x):

Start off with the lighter colour:

1. Rd: 6 sts in a magic ring (6)
2. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (9)
3. Rd: sc in each st around (9)
Change colour.
4.-6. Rd: sc in each st around (9)

End the last round with a slip stitch and stuff the legs. Do not stitch the legs up and leave enough yarn remains for the joining!


Paws (2x):

Like with the legs, start off with the lighter colour:

1. Rd: 5 sts in a magic ring (5)
2. Rd: * 2 sc in same sc, 1 sc in next sc* (repeat from * to *, 2x in total), 2 sc in the same last sc (8)
3. Rd: sc in each st around (8)
Change colour.
4. Rd: dec every 3rd sc (6)
5.-7. Rd: sc in each st around (6)

End the last round with a slip stitch and leave them open. Do not stuff the paws and leave some yarn remains.


Ears (2x):

1. Rd: 5 sts in a magic ring (5)
2. Rd: sc in each st around (5)
3. Rd: 2 sc in the same 1st sc, sc in each remaining st around (6)
4. Rd: 2 sc in the same 1st sc, sc in each remaining st around (7)
5. Rd: 2 sc in the same 1st sc, sc in each remaining st around to last st, 2 sc in last st (9)

End the last round with a slip stitch, leave the ear open and do not stuff. Also, leave enough yarn end to sew the ear to the body. The second ear I made in another colour.


Tail:

Start with the lighter colour:

1. Rd: 5 sts in a magic ring (5)
2. Rd: * 2 sc in first sc, 1 sc in next sc* (repeat 2x), 2 sc in the last sc (8)
Change colour.
3. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (12)
4.-5. Rd: sc in each st around (12)
6. Rd: dec every 5th sc (10)
7. Rd: dec every 4th sc (8)

Stuff the tail.

8. Rd: dec every 3th sc (6)
9. Rd: sc in the next 4 sts, decrease next sc (stitch 5th+6th together) (5)
10.-11. Rd: sc in each st around (5)

End the last round with a slip stitch, do not stitch up the tail and leave some yarn remains.


pieces
At the end, you should have those body parts before joining them

Now, the parts are gradually sewed together, starting with body-to-head. I used white markers in the illustrations that should serve as an indication as to where the parts should be sewed together. Those white markers are not part of the sewing and have to be removed before or while sewing!

 

The legs are positioned between the 2nd/3rd and 4th/5th round and are at most 4 st apart.

 

The arms are on the 7th and 8th round and at most also 4 st apart:

 

For the nose, use a thicker black yarn and make sure that you start and end at the back of the fox in order to not see any yarn sticking out from the nose. Do not knot the black yarn in the back, and make sure that the nose is sewed tightly and that the yarn ends disappear into the body at the back:

 


You have now finished your Foxy! For the summer hat with the straw look take the thinnest yarn you can get (preferably a Diana size 20) and use a hook size that is about 0.5-0.75 mm larger to what is recommended (I used 2.0 mm at a recommended hook size of 0.75-1.25).

Straw hat:

1. Rd: 6 sts in a magic ring (6)
2. Rd: inc every sc (12)
3. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (18)
4. Rd: inc every 3rd sc (24)
5. Rd: inc every 4th sc (30)
6. Rd: inc every 5th sc (36)
7.-11. Rd: sc in each st around (36)
12. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (54)
13. Rd: inc every 3rd sc (72)
14. Rd: inc every 4th sc (90)
15. Rd: inc every 5th sc (108)
16. Rd: inc every 6th sc (126)
17. Rd: inc every 7th sc (144)
18.-19. Rd: sc in each st around (144)

Slip stitch the last stitch and weave in the ends. With additional yarn of the same type sew the hat to the head.

If you do not want your hat to be too wavy, skip the 13.-15. increase rounds and use single crochet rounds instead.

 

You can add a jute yarn or lanyard as a hanger by sewing a circle onto the hat and attaching a yarn piece of appr. length 16 cm onto the circle:

 

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