Amigurumi

This is Sparta! (7.5 cm)

appr. 7.5 cm; 2.0-3.0 mm hook size

Fully-equipped to fight at pocket-size: Amigurumi Spartan. This ancient Greek’s pride has a size of about 7.5 cm. For the equipment and clothing, I recommend to use thin yarn, such as a Diana size 10. In case you want to use a yarn at a larger weight for the entire crochet Spartan, you should skip the skirt to avoid a too bulky look.

What do you need:

start.jpg

  • a skin coloured yarn at a recommended hook size of 2.0-3.0 (e.g. Cotone or Cotone fine) for the body; use a hook size of 2.0 mm to create a dense pattern
  • a red coloured yarn similar to above for the Spartan cape
  • a dark brown coloured yarn of weight lace (e.g. Diana 10) for the shield, helmet and loincloth; use a slightly brighter yarn for the skirt and a hook size of 1.4 mm or less for these equipment (I used a hook of 1.25 mm)
  • a little piece of grey-coloured felt for the sword
  • a pair of safety eyes at 6 mm
  • a scissor
  • some wadding
  • a fine darning needle

For the body, see the instructions from the ‘Marilyn’ post (including the ears) and from there proceed with the equipment pattern below.

Notation: st, sts = stitch, stitches // sc = single crochet // dc = double crochet // inc = increase // dec = decrease // ch = chain // sl st = slip stitch


Shield (dark brown):

1. Rd: start with 6 sc in a magic ring (6). Leave enough yarn at the beginning to later sew the shield to the body
2. Rd: inc every sc (12)
3. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (18)
4. Rd: inc every 3rd sc (24)
5. Rd: inc every 4th sc (30)
6.-7. Rd: sc in each st around (30)
8. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (45)
9. Rd: inc every 3rd sc (60)

Slip stitch at the end, weave in the yarn end from the last round and leave the beginning yarn end (in the middle) for sewing. You can add an ornament ring at the outer part. The shield should be, chronologically, the last equipment to be sewed to the body.


Skirt (lighter brown):

Note 1: after each round, chain 1 and turn your work. For single crochet stitches, chain 1 (turning chain) is counted as the first st of the next row and you work into the st thereafter (i.e. do not work into the turning chain). Apply this procedure also to the other patterns below in which you work with turning chains of sc rounds.

Chain 33.

1.-7. Rd: sc in each st around, starting from the next-to-last stitch (see note). Ch 1, turn your work and continue with the next round (32+1)

Slip stitch the last sc. Leave both yarn ends: one for sewing the skirt on the body together, the other for fixing the skirt to the body.


Loincloth (dark brown):

Chain 7.

*1. Rd: sc in the next 6 stitches, ch 1 and turn the work; see note 1 (6 + 1)
2. Rd: sc in the next st, ch 6 and turn the work (1 + 6)*
*repeat 1.-2.Rd 4 times in total (the outcome is your actual loincloth)
9. Rd: sc in the next 6 st, ch 1 and turn the work (6 + 1)
*10. Rd: sc in the next st, ch 1 and turn the work (1 + 1)*
*repeat the 10.Rd 24 times in total (this later serves as a belt for the loincloth)

Leave both yarn ends for sewing the loincloth on the body and in front of the skirt together.loincloth


Sword (grey felt):

Cut the sword from the felt according to the following parameters:

sword.jpg


Cloak (thicker yarn of red colour):

Note 2: the cloak is done using double crochets. After each round, chain 2 and turn your work. The 2 chains (turning chain) are- for stitches taller than sc- counted as the first st of the next row and you work into the st thereafter (i.e. leave out those 2 ch). If you work with a thinner yarn than of weight 2, use 3 chains as your turning chain and ch 10 in the beginning (instead of 9).

Chain 9, and leave a considerable amount of yarn before the slip knot in order to make an additional chain that is later used to hang the cloak across the chest of the Spartan.

1. Rd: skip the first two chains and dc into 3rd ch from the hook. Continue with dc in each of the remaining chains, ch 2 and turn your work (7 + 2)
2. Rd: 3 dc in 1st dc (skip the turning chain of 2), dc in each of the remaining 5 dc across to the last st, increase again by doing 3 dc in the last st, ch 2 and turn your work (11 + 2)
3.-6. Rd: 2 dc in the next st after the turning chain, dc in the remaining sts across to the last st, increase again by doing 2 dc in the last st, ch 2 and turn your work. In the final round, don’t ch 2 at the end (no turning chain required)

Weave in the yarn end from the last round and make a new chain (additional chain) with the yarn rest from the beginning.


Helmet (dark brown):

This one is a little tricky and I made the helmet in 4 steps that are crocheted together: step 1, the cap with the extended back – step 2, the front sides – step 3, the cone front – step 4, the nose cover.

Step 1, the cap:

1. Rd: start with 6 sc in a magic ring (6)
2. Rd: inc every sc (12)
3. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (18)
4. Rd: inc every 3rd sc (24)
5. Rd: inc every 4th sc(30)
6. Rd: inc every 5th sc (36)
7. Rd: inc every 6th sc (42)
8.-10. Rd: sc in each st around (42)

continue now with the extended back:

11. Rd: sc in each st for the next 20 sts, ch 1 and turn the work; see note 1 (20 +1)
12. Rd: stitch the 1.+2.sc together, continue with a sc for another 16 sts, stitch the last two sc together,  ch 1 and turn the work (18 +1)
13.-15. Rd: sc in each st around, ch 1 and turn the work (18 + 1)
16. Rd: stitch the 1.+2.sc together, 14 sc next, stitch the last two sc together, ch 1 and turn the work (16 +1)
17. Rd: dec every 3rd sc, starting with the decrease (1.+2.sc together, 1 sc in each of the next 2 sc, 5.+6.sc together, 2 sc…)

Weave in the yarn end from the last round. Leave the beginning yarn to later sew the helmet to the head.

Step 2, the front sides (blue colour in illustration):

Start with a new yarn. This piece is yet unattached to the rest of the helmet. After each round, ch 1, turn and work in the st after the turning chain.  Start with a chain of 2 stitches.

1. Rd: 2 sc in the 2nd st from the hook, ch 1 (2 + 1)
2. Rd: 2 sc, ch 1 (2 + 1)
3. Rd: 1 sc, 2 sc in the 2nd sc, ch 1 (3 + 1)
4. Rd: 3 sc, ch 1 (3 + 1)
5. Rd: 2 sc, 2 sc in the 3rd sc, ch 1 (4 + 1)
6.-7. Rd: 4 sc, ch 1 (4 + 1)
8. Rd: 1 sc, 2 sc in the 2nd sc, leave the other sts out, ch 1 (3 + 1)
9. Rd: 2 sc, 2 sc in the 2nd sc, ch 1 (4 + 1)
10. Rd: 3 sc, 2 sc in the 4th sc, ch 1 (5 + 1)
11. Rd: 3 sc, sc next 2 sts together, ch 1 (4 + 1)
12. Rd: 4 sc, ch 16 (19 + 1)
13. Rd: 4 sc, ch 1 (4 + 1)
14. Rd: 4 sc, ch 1 (4 + 1)
15. Rd: 2 sc, sc next two together, ch 1 (3 + 1)
16. Rd: 3 sc, ch 1 (3 + 1)
17. Rd: 2 sc, leave the last st out and ch 4 (5 + 1)
18. Rd: 3 sc, sc the last two sts together, ch 1 (4 + 1)
19. Rd: 4 sc, ch 1 (4 + 1)
20. Rd: 2 sc, sc next sts together, ch 1 (3 + 1)
21. Rd: 3 sc, ch 1 (3 + 1)
22. Rd: 1 sc, sc next sts together, ch 1 (2 + 1)
23. Rd: 2 sc, ch 1 (2 + 1)
24. Rd: sc the remaining two sts together and weave in both ends

Step 3, the cone front (orange colour in illustration):

The cone front is crocheted to the chain stitches at round 12 from step 2 (the front sides). Start with a new yarn from the right side of the chain. After each round turn your work:

1. Rd: stitch with the new yarn into the last stitch of the 12.round, make a sc in that very stitch. Dec next st, sc in the remaining sts across to the last two sts, sc the last sts together, ch 1 (17 + 1)
2. Rd: dec next st, 12 sc, dec last st, ch 1 (14 + 1)
3. Rd: dec next 2 st (1.+2., 3.+4.together), 6 sc, dec last 2 st (11.+12., 13.+14.), ch 1 (10 + 1)
4. Rd: dec every 3rd sc, ch 1 (7 + 1)
6. Rd: dec every 2nd sc, ch 1 (5 + 1)
7. Rd: dec next st, 1 sc, dec last st, ch 1 (3 +1)
8. Rd: dec the remaining sts, ch 1 (2 + 1)
9. Rd: dec the last stitch (1.+2.), ch 1 (1 + 1)
10. Rd: 1 sc (1)

Step 4, the nose cover (green colour in illustration):

1. Rd: With a new yarn stitch into the 5th chain from round 12 of step 2 (front sides), yarn over and sc into that very stitch. Continue with further 2 sc, ch 1 (3 + 1)
2. Rd: sc the first 2 together, 1 sc, ch 1 (2 + 1)
3. Rd: sc 2 together, ch 1 (1 + 1)
4. Rd: 1 sc, ch 1 (1 + 1)
5. Rd: 2 sc in the only st, ch 1 (2 + 1)
6. Rd: 2 sc in each of the sc, ch 1 (4 + 1)
7. Rd: 1 sc, sc 2 together, 1 sc, ch 1 (3 + 1)
8. Rd: sc 2 together, 1 sc, ch 1 (2 + 1)
9. Rd: sc 2 together, ch 1 (1 + 1)
10. Rd: 1 sc, weave in both ends

In order to finish the helmet, sew step 2-3-4 (being 1 part) to the cap (step 1).


Joining parts:

First, sew the skirt and the loincloth onto the Spartan, followed by the helmet. Then, attached the cloak onto the back by putting the additional chain of the cloak around the chest, under the arm and connecting it back to the top. Finally, sew the shield to the left or right hand side of the Spartan by using the yarn end from the beginning round of the shield (hence, sew from the middle of the shield). Make sure that you do not attach the shield too tightly so that it remains convex.

spartan-1

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