Amigurumi

Nurse ‘Marilyn’ (8 cm)

appr. 8 cm - 2.0-3.0 mm hook size

marilynnurse

The stereotype of a nurse (for probably anyone who hasn’t worked in a hospital): blond and slightly nutty. The crochet pattern for your very own amigurumi nurse is suitable for beginners and takes about 4 hours to make (the most time goes on the hair). The final lady has appr. 8 cm height incl. the bonnet.

What do you need:

startwith.jpg

  • a skin- resp. white-coloured yarn at a recommended hook size of 2.0-3.0 (e.g. Cotone or Cotone fine) for the body resp. bonnet
  • a white-coloured yarn for the suit at a recommended hook size of 2.0-2.5 or finer (e.g. Cotone fine or a Diana of size 5). Overall, the yarn for the dress should have a lace or super fine weight, otherwise the dress will end up being too bulky
  • a piece of red yarn for the cross on the bonnet
  • a bouclé yarn for the hair
  • a pair of safety eyes at 6 mm
  • a scissor
  • some wadding
  • a fine darning needle
  • in case of different yarn weights, two crochet hooks: one for the thicker yarn (preferably 2.0 mm), one for the finer yarn (1.5 mm or less)

Description: the number in brackets (x) at the end of a round indicates the total number of stitches that this round ends up to have. When the sentence states e.g. “increase every 3rd sc“, it means that you do a single crochet in the 1st and 2nd sc, and 2 single crochets in the 3rd sc (i.e. your round increases now by 1 stitch). You repeat the increase by counting anew after the increase stitch (4th sc = 1st sc…). “Decrease every 3rd sc” means respectively, that you make a single crochet in the 1st and 2nd sc and crochet the 3rd and 4th sc together (i.e. your round is now reduced by 1 stitch). You repeat the decrease throughout the round by counting anew at the 5th sc.

I sometimes write “decrease the [next; x-th] sc” which means that you crochet the next two sc (x-th & (x+1)-th) together. You do not repeat the decrease unless it says “decrease every […]”

Crochet in continuous rounds!

st, sts = stitch, stitches // sc = single crochet // [sc] inc = increase [by an additional sc in the same st] // [sc] dec = decrease [by crocheting next to sts with a sc together] // sl st = slip stitch


Body:
The pattern for the body allows you to consecutively crochet the physique without sewing the different body parts together; you start with the head, then outline the arms, crochet the rest of the body and finalize with the legs. Both arms are then completed.

1. Rd (head): do 6 st in a magic ring (6)
2. Rd: inc every sc (12)
3. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (18)
4. Rd: inc every 3rd sc (24)
5. Rd: inc every 6th sc (28)
6.-9. Rd: sc in each st around (28).

Put a marker at the beginning of the 7.Rd. This marks the location of your 1st eye.

10. Rd: dec every 6th sc (24)
11. Rd: dec every 5th sc (20)

=> insert the safety eyes. The 1st eye goes to where your marker is. For the 2nd eye count 4 stitches along the 7.Rd and insert the other eye in the 5. st.

12. Rd: dec every 3th sc (15)
13. Rd: dec every 4th sc (12)

=> stuff the inside of the head

14. Rd: dec every 2nd sc (8)
15. Rd (neck): sc in each st around (8)
16. Rd (continue body): inc every sc (16)
17. Rd: inc every 2nd sc (24)
18. Rd: inc every 4th sc (30)
19. Rd: inc every 6th sc (35)
20. Rd (outlining arms): count 8 sts and single crochet in the 8th sc (this will be your 1st arm). Sc in each sc across for another 9 st (9). Then count again 8 sts and sc in the 8th sc (this will be your 2nd arm). Continue with sc for the remaining 10 sts (21):

21. Rd: sc in each sc across, include the two “armpit”-stitches (21)

arms-outline-4.jpg
21. Rd: include the connecting stitch from the 20.Rd

22. Rd: sc in each st around (21)
23. Rd: dec every 5th sc (3x), sc in the remaining 2 sts (18)
24. Rd (outlining legs): sc in the next 6 sts. Then count 9 sts and stitch through the 9th sc

legs-outline.jpg
24. Rd: outline the legs by stitching through the 15th sc (6 sc + 9 counts)

25. Rd (new count): continue with sc in each st around for one leg (9)
26.-27. Rd: sc in each st around (9)

=> stuff the inside of the body and the leg

28. Rd: dec the next sts and close the leg.

Repeat 25.-28.Rd for the next leg: start with a new yarn, make a knot in the beginning end of the yarn, stitch through at the back, yarn over and sc into that very stitch as your start of the first round of the new leg.

For the arms, proceed similarly to the last leg: make a knot in the yarn and stitch anywhere in the arm-outline, sc in that very beginning stitch and continue with your first round:

1.-2. Rd: sc in each st around (8)

=> stuff the inside of the arm

3. Rd: dec and close the arm.

For the 2nd arm, repeat 1.-3.Rd.

Finally, weave in all yarn ends properly and the body is finished:

In case you want to include ears: for each ear, make 4 st in a magic ring and sew the ears between the 6.+9. Rd of the head, 3 sts away from each eye.


Hair (blond):
There are several methods to add hair of which the most common one (used in case the head is already finished) is demonstrated below (a darker yarn was used for better visibility). The process is always the same: insert the hook through two holes of a stitch that are close to each other, yarn over one piece of hair-yarn that is folded into two equal sections and pull it through the stitch. Then, reach – either with the finger or with the hook- through the just created loop for the two yarn ends and pull it through the loop. Tighten the yarn ends equally so that the hair string sits firm. Repeat this for the remaining stitches that you want to have hair on.

Tip: if you use a fluffier, thicker yarn, the hairstyle becomes very dense (that’s how I made it). On the other hand, you can save much time with a thicker yarn, if you do not pull the hair string through one but through two stitches instead (i.e. the distance covered with one hair string becomes wider), which also makes the hairstyle less thick.


Suit (white):
At each round, turn your work. Start with a chain of 27 st.

1. Rd: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across. Turn your work without a turning chain (i.e. do not chain 1) (26)
2.-4. Rd: sc in each st around, turn your work without a turning chain (25-24-23)
5. Rd: chain 1 and sc in each st around (23)
6. Rd: sc in each sc for the next 5 sts, chain 7 (for the 1st arm) and slip stitch into the 8th sc from round 5. Continue with 7 sc, chain 7 anew (for the 2nd arm) and slip stitch into the 18th stitch from round 5 (3rd when counting from the last st before the chain), finalize the round with remaining 5 sc (31)
7. Rd: chain 1 and sc in each st around (31)
8. Rd: do not chain 1 and sc in the next 2 scs, decrease the 3rd sc, slip stitch for the next 6 sc, decrease next sc, sc in the next 6 sc, decrease the next sc, slip stitch for the next 6 sc, decrease the next sc, sc in the remaining 2 sc (27)

Weave in one yarn end and use the other to sew the dress on the body together.

dress-1.jpg


Bonnet (white):
Crochet in continuous rounds! Start with a chain of 8 sts.

1. Rd: sc in 2nd ch from hook and in each ch across, 3 sc in the last sc (9); continue with sc in each of the next 7 ch sts from the other side of the chain and end the round with 2 sc in the last sc (18)
2.-4. Rd: sc in each st around (18); end the last round with a slip stitch.

Leave enough yarn end to sew the bonnet to the head. Before joining the bonnet to the head, embroider a red cross to the front of the bonnet by using a red yarn.

marilynnurse-2.jpg

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